- Remove voltage from the Isotrol via lockout/tagout. Barricade the STP sump, and access UMP (motor) field wiring. Visually inspect all wiring including the ground. Once visual inspection is complete restore power and preform the following tests.
- Verify orange wire at STP (motor) (M1) is receiving 120VAC - if not present call electrician it appears voltage is not making it to the PMA and will need to be replaced.
- Verify black wire at STP (motor) (M2) is receiving 120VAC - if not present call electrician it appears voltage is not making it to the PMA and will need to be replaced.
- Again, remove power from the UMP (motor) via lockout/tagout. This will be completed without power applied. Change your multimeter setting to microfarads to verify the capacitor. The rating should be legible on the side. This will also be a good indicator of what size UMP (motor) is in the tank. Replace the capacitor if the reading is less than capacitor rating.
- .75 HP motor - 17.5 microfarad capacitor.
- 1.5 HP motor - 25 microfarad capacitor.
- 2 HP motor - 40 microfarad capacitor.
- Carefully disconnect and remove the capacitor. Change your multimeter to ohm's. Check orange/black, orange/red, and black/red to determine if motor windings are good.
| .75 HP Motor | 1.5 HP Motor |
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| 2 HP Motor | |
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If your resistance values are within specs your pigtail and motor are in proper working condition, and you either have a hydraulic related issue or a hook signal related issue.
If your resistance values are out of spec, you either have a bad motor or a pigtail that has failed. The motor will need to be pulled.
Leaving the lockout/tagout in place, close the line ball valve and pull the motor. With the motor removed you will test the pins on the motor. If you get the correct values based on the chart, you will need to replace the pig tail assembly only. If your motor testing fails, you will need to replace the motor. It is best practice to replace the pigtail and capacitor as preventative maintenance while the assembly is removed.
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